Back to Sarah’s Key

The original US cover of Sarah's Key. (In which the Eiffel Tower strangely appears on the wrong side of Luxembourg Palace?)

The original US cover of Sarah’s Key. (In which the Eiffel Tower strangely appears on the wrong side of Luxembourg Palace. Anyone else notice that or is it just me?)

Sarah’s Key by Tatiana de Rosnay was one of the first books I wanted to map out during my year in Paris. I read this book with my Chicago-based book club and never forgot it. I was determined to find the sites from the book and take some photos for my blog. My original post, with photos of the commemorative plaques and statues near the Eiffel Tower can be found right here.

I’ve been meaning to update that post for awhile now. Back in 2012, I made some new discoveries and went back to take some more photographs. How it happened is kind of cool.

I noticed that one of my favorite Paris bloggers (Richard Nahem of Eye Prefer Paris) had posted photos of the courtyard of the fictional apartment from Sarah’s Key. But wait! His photos were of 26, rue Saintonge in the Marais, and mine were from 32, rue Saintonge. Whoops!

I tweeted out to Richard (I’m @parisartclub, he’s @eyepreferparis) wondering about the mix-up, when who should tweet us back? Tatiana de Rosnay herself (what a treat!), explaining the reason for our confusion. Apparently, in the book Sarah’s address is 26, rue de Saintonge and in the movie it’s 32.

So then of course I had to go see the address from the book for myself. I good friend and fellow reader from Chicago was visiting and was game for a literary trek. We headed into the Marais (she had a recent travel article in hand about the hopping Haut-Marais) and we found ourselves near rue de Saintonge. “This way to Sarah’s house!” I pointed. Obviously, book lovers like me have a hard time distinguishing fact from fiction.

I found the bright blue doors at #26, just like Eye Prefer Paris had earlier. My friend and I also got the chance to peek in the courtyard, and we had a little “book club moment.” We looked up at the open windows, picturing Sarah’s old neighbor the music teacher, playing the violin as he sat in his window. Seriously, I think I wiped away a tear or two.

Here is the passage from Sarah’s Key that we recalled:

     Outside, the girl saw a neighbor wearing pajamas leaning out his window. He was a nice man, a music teacher. He liked playing the violin, and she liked listening to him. He often played for her and her brother from across the courtyard. Old French songs like “Sur le pont d’Avignon” and `A la claire fontaine,” and also songs from her parents’ country, songs that always got her mother and father dancing gaily, her mother’s slippers sliding across the floorboards, her father twirling her round and round, round and round until they all felt dizzy.

“What are you doing? Where are you taking them?” he called out.

His voice ran across the courtyard, covering the baby’s yells. The man in the raincoat did not answer him.

“But you can’t do this,” said the neighbor. “They’re honest good people! You can’t do this!”

At the sound of his voice, shutters began to open, faces peered out from behind curtains.

But the girl noticed that nobody moved, nobody said anything. They simply watched.

 

 

The bright blue doorway to 26 rue de Saintonge

The bright blue doorway to 26 rue de Saintonge

 

The fictional courtyard from the book Sarah's Key at 36 rue de Saintonge, Paris

The fictional courtyard from the book Sarah’s Key at 26 rue de Saintonge, Paris. Can’t you just picture the nice man and his violin leaning out the window?

 

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The plaque on a nearby school. It says: "From 1942 to 1944, more than 11,000 children were deported from France by the Nazis with the active participation of the Vichy government of France and assassinated in death camps because they were Jews. MOre than 500 of these children lived in the 3rd arrondissement. A number of them went to the elementary schools in this quarter. Let's Never Forget Them.

The plaque on a nearby school on rue des Quatre-Fils in the 3rd.  It says: “From 1942 to 1944, more than 11,000 children were deported from France by the Nazis with the active participation of the Vichy government of France and assassinated in death camps because they were born Jewish. More than 500 of these children lived in the 3rd arrondissement. A number of them went to the Ecoles Elementaires Filles et Garcons des Quatre-Fils.  Never Forget Them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is all probably a good reminder as we prepare to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the liberation of Paris on August 25, 2014. Ne les oublions jamais.

 

In the Conservatory with Madame Bartholomé

Albert Bartholomé, Dans la serre (1881), a portrait of his first wife Prospérie

Albert Bartholomé, Dans la serre (1881), a portrait of his first wife Prospérie. Musée d’Orsay, Paris, on loan to the Impressionism, Fashion & Modernity exhibit currently at the Art Institute of Chicago.

This painting, called Dans la Serre (In the Conservatory) is getting a lot of well-deserved attention in the Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity Exhibit currently on display at the Art Institute of Chicago (June-September 22, 2013).

In spite of the snippy things the New York Times had to say about it (“wide miss” and “cloying”), in my experience, this painting draws some of the biggest crowds at the exhibit, from Paris to Chicago. Behind it lies a tragic but fascinating story.

Albert Bartholomé (1848-1928) painted this portrait of his first wife Prospérie de Fleury (the daughter of the Marquis de Fleury) in 1881. She posed in a fashionable  dress in the conservatory of their home, which was located at 8 rue Bayard in Paris.

 

The dress of Prospérie Bartholomé, Musée d'Orsay

The dress of Prospérie Bartholomé, Musée d’Orsay.

 

 

 

The painting is large and captivating, but when exhibited right next to the very dress that Propérie (“Périe”) wore while she posed, it’s a show stopper. The detailing of the dress is as remarkable as its petite size. Seriously, I think I could have worn that dress in sixth grade.

 

 

 

The setting of Dans Le Serre reflects the couple’s wealth and standing. The garden in the background reminds me of the beautiful gardens of the Musée Nissim de Camondo near Parc Monceau in Paris, another home of great wealth and history (a home I like to call the “Downton Abbey of Paris.”)

Backyard gardens of the Musée Nissim de Camondo in Paris.

Backyard gardens of the Musée Nissim de Camondo in Paris.

The Bartholomé home wasn’t in the fashionable Parc Monceau neighborhood, but it was located on an equally beautiful block in the “Golden Triangle” of the 8th arrondissement between the Seine and the Place de François 1er. This is what their block looked like back then:

Place François 1er before 1909, source: wikipedia.

Place François 1er before 1909, source: wikipedia.

Fontaine de la Place François 1er, Paris. Source: wikipedia

Fontaine de la Place François 1er, Paris. Source: wikipedia

 

 

 

And here is the Place de François de 1er now, including the beautiful fountain you might recognize from the opening montage in Midnight in ParisThe Google Map Street View will give you a good glimpse of the structure that stands at 8 rue Bayard today.

 

 

 

 

 

According to the Musée d’Orsay, the Bartholomés enjoyed hosting salons for their artistic circle of friends (including Edgar Degas, Mary Cassatt and Jacques-Emile Blanche) with free-ranging intellectual discussions about music, painting and books.

Two years after he painted Périe’s portrait in Dans le Serre, Bartholomé drew a pastel portrait showing her reading on the couch in front of a bookshelf. Clearly, their home was full of books. Périe is dressed in another fashionable dress, this one with black ruffles and resembling some of the other fashions in the Impressionism and Fashion exhibit, particularly Manet’s Parisienne. She seems to be wearing the same gold bracelet that she did in Dans le Serre.

Albert Bartholomé, The Artist’s Wife, Reading, pastel and charcoal (1883), The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Catharine Lorillard Wolfe Collection.

Two years later, Albert and Périe became the subject of a joint portrait by Edgar Degas, a painting started in 1885 called The Conversation. Once again, Périe’s outfit (in which her bustle resembles the tail plume of a turkey) seems to be the focus of the composition.

Edgar Degas, The Conversation (1885-1895), Yale University Art Gallery, Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon.

Edgar Degas, The Conversation (1885-1895), Yale University Art Gallery, Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon. Image: Yale Art Gallery e-catalogue.

Unfortunately, Prospérie was in poor health and would die in 1887, just two years after they posed for the Degas painting. Bartholomé was so overwhelmed with grief that he preserved the dress that Périe wore in the Dans le Serre. I’m not sure how it became the property of the Charles and André Bailly Gallery in Paris, but it was subsequently gifted to the Musée d’Orsay in 1991.

As if the Bartholomé story wasn’t sad enough, Périe’s death caused Albert to give up painting altogether. On the advice of his friend Edgar Degas, he took up sculpting instead. Maybe the highly physical act of molding large-scale plaster and bronze was more cathartic than painting with a brush.

His first sculpture was for his wife’s tomb in front of a church in Bouillant, France, near Crépy en Valois. Not only did Bartholomé express his own raw grief, he also captured his young wife’s likeness. She has the same delicately pointed nose that she does in the painting Dans la Serre.

Bartholomé sculpure on his first wife's tomb in Bouillant, France.

Bartholomé’s sculpture for his first wife’s tomb in Bouillant, France. Image: Parismyope.blogspot.com.

From that point on, Bartholomé’s entire oeuvre consisted of grief sculptures. He is probably best known for his Monument aux Morts at the Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris (1888-1889), which is heart wrenchingly sad.

Albert Bartholomé, Monuement aux Mortsu cimetière du Père Lachaise (1889-1899). Image: parismyope.blogspot. com.

Albert Bartholomé, Monuement aux Morts du cimetière du Père Lachaise (1889-1899). Image: parismyope.blogspot. com.

Despite Bartholomé’s deep and long-lasting grief, he did manage to remarry in 1901. I wish I knew the whole story, but all I can find is that his second wife Florence Letessier (18xx-1959) had been a model before their marriage, so presumably that’s how they met. Bartholomé would have been in his 50s at the time of his second marriage but Florence was much younger.

Bartholomé sculpted Florence in 1909, but it doesn’t look as though her youth and serenity captured his imagination as much as the memory of his first wife. Florence’s face looks full and healthy but her expression and posture are utterly bland.

Albert Bartholomé, Bust, Madame de Bartholomé, Née Florence Letessier, Second Spouse of the Artist (1909). Image:http://www.culture.gouv.fr/public/mistral/joconde

Albert Bartholomé, Bust, Madame de Bartholomé, Née Florence Letessier, Second Spouse of the Artist (1909), Musée d’Orsay. Image: http://www.culture.gouv.fr/public/mistral/joconde

Sometime after their marriage, Bartholomé and Florence moved to 1 rue Raffet in the 16th arrondissement of Paris, where he would have a sculpting studio right next door to their home. The home and studio are still standing, as you can see from Google Maps Street View. Today, the studio at 1 bis rue Raffet rents out separately from the apartment building next door.

On a side note, Bartholomé’s art studio on rue Raffet became part of a huge art controversy in the 1950s. Apparently, Degas allowed his good friend Bartholomé to make plaster casts of some of his sculptures for Bartholomé’s private collection, including a plaster cast of Little Dancer, Age 14. Florence inherited the plaster casts in upon Albert’s death in 1928, but they didn’t go on the art market until she was placed in an asylum in the 1950’s, creating a big controversy.

In any event, you shouldn’t miss the chance to go see Bartholomé’s portrait of his wife Périe in Dans le Serre at the Art Institute of Chicago’s Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity Exhibit. Just look into Périe’s eyes, and you can almost imagine their sad story. It’s anything but a wide miss.

 

 

 

 

 

Midnight in Paris Film Sites

How many times have you seen Midnight in Paris? At least three? Me too. Whenever I talk to American book clubs about my literary tours of Paris, they’re always interested in Midnight in Paris sites too. So I’ve put together a list and some photos. Not exactly a tour, but a good place to start.

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This list is organized according their appearance in the film, not according to a convenient walking tour. The sites are pretty widely scattered throughout Paris, so the best thing to do would be to pick one arrondissement, stumble around until you find a site or two, and then stop for a glass of wine. Repeat the next day when you’re in another arrondissement. By then you’ll have a good taste of Paris.

Opening Montage
Midnight in Paris opens with iconic Paris postcard scenes like Pont Alexandre III, Place de la Concorde, Tuilleries, Arc de Triomphe, the Seine, the Louvre, the lock bridge, Fouquets, L’Opera, Place de Trocadéro and Métro line 6  which goes over the Seine. It took me nearly a year to discover Fontaine de la Place Françoise the First, featured so beautifully in the opening montage. My husband and I stumbled into the fountain (well, not literally, although we did have a bottle or two of wine) as we were walking home from my birthday dinner one night. I can’t imagine a better way to make a discovery in Paris.

Here’s my own opening montage:

Arc de Triomphe

L’Arc de Triomphe

Pont Alexandre III

Pont Alexandre III

Fontaine de la place Françoise 1er

Fontaine de la place Françoise 1er

Fountain of River and Commerce in the Place de la Concorde

One of the Fontaines de la Concorde

The Seine at Pont Michel

The Seine at Pont Michel

Metro Line 6 over the Seine from the 16th to the 7th

Metro Line 6 over the Seine from the 16th to the 7th

The Lock Bridge (Pont de l'Archevêché) and Notre Dame

The Lock Bridge (Pont de l’Archevêché) and Notre Dame

Sites In Order of Appearance in the Film

1. Opening scene – Monet’s Garden, Giverny (outside Paris)

2. Hotel scene – Le Bristol, 112 rue de Faubourg St. Honoré (8th)

3. Restaurant scene- Le Grand Vefour, 17 rue de Beaujolais, Palais Royale (1st)

4. Versailles gardens (outside Paris)

5. Jewelry store scene- Chopard, 1 Place Vendome (2nd)

6. Carla Bruni scene in garden – Hotel Biron, Musée Rodin, 79 rue Varenne (7th)

7. Rooftop winetasting scene – Hotel Le Meurice, 224 rue de Rivoli (2nd)

8. Church steps scene – St. Etienne du Mont, rue de Montagne Genevieve (5th)

9. Party with F. Scott Fitzgerald– Quai de Bourbon, Isle St. Louis, west side (1st)

10. Bricktop’s w/Josephine Baker– (imaginary location) 17 rue Malebranche (5th)

11. Hemingway’s Bar – (imaginary) Le Polidor, 41 rue Monsieur le Prince (6th)

12. Antique store – Philippe de Beauvais, 112 Boulevard De Courcelle (17th)

13. Church near antique store – Cathedral of Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky, Rue Daru (8th)

14. Back to steps at St. Etienne du Mont (5th)

15. Gertrude Stein’s – 27 rue de Fleurus (6th)

16. Flea market – Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, Le Marché Paul Bert, 96-110 rue des Rosiers (18th)

17. Monet Water Lillies – Musée de l’Orangerie, Place de la Concorde (8th)

18. Bristol Hotel dining room, Le Bristol, 112 rue de Faubourg St. Honoré (8th)

19. Fairground – Musée des Arts Forains, Pavillons de Bercy, 53 avenue des Terroirs de France (12th)

20. Zelda suicide scene – along the Seine below Le Pont de la Carrousel (1st)

21. Montmartre Steps – rue du Chevalier de la Barre (18th)

22. Various Montmartre bars, back to Bristol hotel, Rodin Museum, Gertrude Stein’s, flea market

23. Bouquinistes along the Seine (5th)

24. Carla Bruni scene behind of Notre Dame – Parc Jean XXIII, Ile de la Cite (1st)

25. Taxidermy cocktail party – Maison Deyrolle, 46 rue du Bac (6th)

26. Restaurant Paul, Place Dauphine, rue Henri Robert, Isle de la Cité (1st)

27. Maxim’s – Maxim’s, 3 rue Royale (8th)

28. Moulin Rouge, 82 boulevard de Clichy (18th)

29. Shakespeare and Company, 37 rue de la Bucherie (5th)

30. Pont Alexandre III (8th)

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Japanese bridge in Monet’s Gardens, Giverny

Le Grand Vefour, 17 rue de Beaujolais, Palais Royale

Le Grand Vefour, 17 rue de Beaujolais, Palais Royale

Musée Rodin gardens

Musée Rodin gardens

Steps of St. Genevieve

Steps of St. Etienne du Mont

Cathedral of Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky

Cathedral of Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky

Plaque at 27 rue de Fleurus, Gertrude Stein's apartment

Plaque at 27 rue de Fleurus, Gertrude Stein’s apartment

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen (Clingancourt)

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen (Clingancourt)

Stairway on rue du Chevalier de la Barre

Stairway on rue du Chevalier de la Barre

Bouquinistes

Bouquinistes

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Behind Notre Dame looking toward Square Jean XXIII

Maison Deyrolle, 46 rue du Bac

Maison Deyrolle, 46 rue du Bac

Moulin Rouge

Moulin Rouge

Shakespeare & Company

Shakespeare & Company

Bronze sculpture adorning Pont Alexandre III

Bronze sculpture adorning Pont Alexandre III

If you’re heading to Paris, I hope you have fun creating your own individual Midnight in Paris tour. Have some wine, stumble into some fountains. . . .  and enjoy.